"Purple-Washing Instructions"

* These instructions are just one of many possible ways to purple-wash a doll.
I find this method one of the easiest ways, so it is a good one to follow if you are just getting started with reborning.
 

Purple-washing is not an exact science at all.  We call this step purple-washing because whatever genius invented this hobby used straight purple paint to color the inside of the dolls.  However, straight purple acrylic paint (especially the dark purple Royal Violet that is recommended) can be very tricky.  Some people have mastered the art of using straight purple acrylic paint and their dolls turn out beautifully, but I have found that I cannot do it without getting the "bruised/dead baby" effect.  A much safer route is to mix the purple acrylic paint with some softer, friendlier colors.  I like the combination of purple, mauve, flesh, and pink, and I don't care which exact shade they are.  The picture shows specific colors, but you really can use any variation of those colors.  As long as your paint isn't too dark, your doll should turn out just fine.  You also don't have to follow this color combination if you don't want to.  The only way to get the effect you really like is to experiment.  The combination shown here is fool-proof, but that doesn't mean it's the only way, or even the best way.  Also, you don't need to buy any particular brand--any water-based acrylic paint will work fine.

Step 3:

Mix your paint

Stir up your paint with your paint brush or a spoon or something, until the colors are mixed evenly.  The color shown on the left is a bit light, but will work just fine.  I usually make my color a little darker, so I might have added another bottle of the dark purple.  But again, this is not an exact science, so don't worry about it too much.

Step 4:

Cut your neck opening larger

Even though the hole in the head is large enough for your paint brush to fit inside, it just makes things easier to cut the hole larger, and absolutely necessary if you plan to change the eyes.  You can change the eyes either before painting the inside of the head, or after.  Just make sure the paint is thoroughly dry if you choose to change the eyes after painting. 

Use your precision utility knife to cut a larger opening.  Mind your fingers, and make sure you do not cut past the rim of the neck.  You need the outside edge to remain intact so that you can connect it later to the cloth body. 

Your finished cut neck should look like the photo on the left.

Step 5:

Slap on the paint!

Get a good amount of paint on your fan paint brush and then slop it inside that head!  Make sure the paint is fairly thick, and try to get the coating as even as you can.  Paint all over the inside of the head, because you want to see a change in color on the face from missing a spot.  If you have already rooted hair on your head, like the own shown, the paint will double as a glue to keep the rooted hair securely in place.  Once you have painted the head, leave it on it's side for at least 24 hours until it is completely dry.

Step 6:

Cut arm and leg holes bigger

The arms and legs have holes in them similar to the neck, but these holes really aren't big enough for a fan paint brush to fit inside.  So you will need to cut them bigger, just like you did the neck hole, using your precision utility knife.  Mind your fingers.

You should end up with holes that look something like the photo on the left.  Don't worry if the hole is unevenly cut--you won't see it.  Just make sure the opening is plenty large enough for your fan paint brush.

Step 7:

Paint your arms and legs

Load your brush up with paint and paint the inside of the hands and feet just the way you did the head.  Be sure to get your brush way up in there so all the little fingers get paint as well.  Then leave those to dry for 24 hours as well.