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ADVANCED TUTORIAL - OIL TECHNIQUE |
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Reborn Supplies Incorporated
Reborning Tutorial Copyrighted 2005 Reborn Supplies Inc. All Rights Reserved. - This tutorial is free of charge for view and printing for personal use only. The unauthorized reprinting or copying of this tutorial for monetary gain is in violation of domestic and international copyright laws.
"How To"
Apply Oil Paints!
Make your very own One of a kind OOAK (One Of A Kind) Reborn Berenguer Doll
No two babies are ever alike.
These reborn instructions will show you how to apply oil paints for your reborn Berenguer doll or similar doll.
This is and ** ADVANCED TUTORIAL ** and not recommended for beginning reborn artists. |
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ADVANCED TUTORIAL - OIL TECHNIQUE |
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Step 1:
Gather Supplies
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Choose the doll you would like to reborn. Prepare your workspace. Gather supplies. We recommend wearing gloves while working with the oil paints.
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Step 2:
Goof Off |
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First you will remove all the vinyl body parts & using "Goof Off" you will remove all the factory painting from the doll. This picture shows the head before doing anything to it. |
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Step 3:
(OPTIONAL)
Hair Lines |
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If you want to hand root hair on the baby, you can use a Dremel drill & sand off the hair coloring & all the molded hair lines. This is optional. |
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Step 4:
Products
(Use CAUTION) |
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This is the two items that will remove the paint from the dolls. If using the Acetone, be sure to NOT get any on the face. I use it only on the sanded head to make it smooth, as the acetone does make the vinyl come off a little. |
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Step 5:
Head Preparation |
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After smoothing the sanded head with the acetone, pour boiling water inside the head. This will make the head soft so you can remove the eyes by squeezing the head different directions. If the eyes are really difficult, you may want to pour boiling water inside the head again to soften the vinyl so you can remove the second eye.
If you want to drill holes in the nose to help the baby "breathe" now is the time to do this.
Wash the doll with soapy water to remove the acetone. Then you put all the vinyl parts in a large pan of hot water, bring it to a boil & let boil for approximately 10 minutes. This helps remove all the oil from the vinyl & any cleaner that was left from the soapy bath.
Lay out everything to dry completely before you start painting. I lay mine in front of my upright freezer on a towel. It dries very nicely from the warm air coming out from under the front of the freezer. |
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Step 6:
Paint Preparation |
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Using titanium white oil paint, squeeze out at least a 3" strip. Then with your flesh colored oil paint, squeeze it just enough to make a couple dots in your bowl. Pour about 2 TBS of Refined or Purified Linseed oil in the bowl. Mix together very well so there are no streaks of color & no lumps. I use my finger, but you can use a brush or pop sickle stick or anything you choose. |
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Step 7:
Paint Parts |
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With your fingers or paint brush, smear the barely colored paint all over the vinyl parts. Try to keep away from the lips, but if you get it on there, you can wipe it off before it dries. Leave paint on doll approximately two minutes, and then with clean soft cloth, wipe vigorously to remove all paint. You will now have a sort of translucent coloring to the doll. If you desire, you may repeat this procedure. I usually do two or three layers if I want a really light baby. |
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Step 8:
After Picture |
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This picture is after two coats of paint smeared on & wiped off. |
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Step 9:
Blushing |
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Next, using the Cadmium Red paint, touch your finger to the opening on the tube, & dot the red paint on the forehead, nose, cheeks & chin. Rub it in a circular motion till you have the area covered that you want blushed. Quickly wipe off all access. |
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Step 10:
Blushing |
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Smear your lightly colored paint on top of the area you blushed, just to tone down the red to look more like a natural blush. |
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Step 11:
Hot Head |
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After you are finished with blushing the face, poured boiling water inside the head so you can put the eyes back in. If you have a lot of trouble putting the eyes in, you can always make an X cut in the eye socket & insert the eyes from inside the head, then seal the eye openings inside with E6000 glue. |
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Step 12:
(Optional)
Pacifier |
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Glue a small, very strong earth magnet inside the head where the mouth is if you plan on having a pacifier. To be sure to get the magnet in the correct place, I placed my redone pacifier on the mouth of the doll so the magnet would cling to the pacifier thru the vinyl. Then I glued a piece of white cloth over the magnet inside the mouth to help it stay in place. |
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Step 13:
Drawing Eyebrows |
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Add your eyebrows, and immediately rub them down to "barely there". |
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Step 14:
Eyelash & Lips |
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Glue on eyelashes & painted the lips. Seal the lips with the Delta Cermacoat varnish. You don't want dark lips, so play around until you are happy with the color. |
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Step 15:
Stencil Creme |

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Use a q-tip & Stencil cream in Berry Berry shade to highlight all the creases, ears, etc on the doll to make it look more realistic. After applying the stencil cream & waiting a couple minutes, wipe off the excess until you like the results. |
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Step 16:
FINISH |
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This is after rubbing the excess off. You can see the shadowing it leaves.
Now you either micro root mohair on the head, or put a good quality wig on the doll. If you root the hair, you will need to seal it on the inside of the head with a couple coats of Modge Podge glue.
Your baby is ready to be given a new cloth body, stuffed with poly-fill, poly pellets, baby fat and/or sterile sand for weight like a newborn baby. |